Dog food for an active Vizsla

Bailey and Chloe have been eating super premium dog food since they came to live with us as little pups. 

Chloe's breeder had recommended Timberwolf Dog Food.  This is an expensive dog food and we have to order it on line and have it shipped to us. 

To most people this may seem foolish. Safeway brand or other generic dog foods are much less expensive and available just down the street.

We use cooked ground turkey, frozen green beans and Timberwolf kibble.  Chloe is on one Timberwolf formula and Bailey is on another.

During Bailey's last field trial in Derby, the veteran field trial judge called down from his horse about 10 minutes into the brace, "Handler, what do you feed that dog?"  This was Bailey's blue ribbon run.  I thought that for him to ask, we must be doing something right.

My wife and I wanted high-energy, athletic dogs.  That was one of the reasons we got our Vizslas.   Athletes need the best nutrients available. 

Here is a good article on why higher costs can cost you less:

By Nan Weitzman and Ross Becker

The sources and availability of nutrients are the keys to determining the quality of a dog food. Much has been written lately in the general press about all dog foods being alike.

Anyone who believes this just doesn't know the facts.

With dog food, the truth is not that you get what you pay for. You can get less than what you pay for, or more. It depends on the quality of the ingredients, the formula, and the nutritional punch of the food.

We like to delve a little deeper into the mysteries of dog food. We look at various scientific analyses to determine how much energy a dog food will provide. And we analyze cost per feeding.

When we began to look at cost per feeding last year, we discovered an interesting fact:
It costs LESS to feed a Super Premium dog food than an Economy dog food. The secret is in the nutritional power of the food.

A Super-Premium dog food contains much More energy and protein in every kibble than an economy brand.

In one test we ran, we had to feed five times as much of the Economy brand dog food to get the same nutritional benefits of the Super-Premium.

Despite the lower cost per bag of the Econo brand, it costs you more to feed than a Super-Premium, because you use more bags.

How does cost fit in to the dog food picture? We measured the cost of 40 pound bags of various maintenance/adult dog foods and took the manufacturers' suggested feeding instructions. We then calculated the cost of feeding a 40 lb house dog for a day.

The Premium foods studied had an average of 22% crude protein and 10% crude fat. The Super-Premium dog foods examined had an average of 27% crude protein and 15% crude fat. The Economy brands averaged 20% crude protein and 8% crude fat.

The Super-Premium foods suggested feeding an average of 1-3/4 cups of food per day for our 40 lb dog. Premium brands recommended 3-1/4 cups, while the Econo brands instructed feeding 6 cups a day.

It costs an average of:
* 24 cents a day to feed a dog a Super-Premium brand
* 26 cents a day for a Premium brand
* 31 cents a day for an Econo brand!

That's right - the Econo-brand actually costs you 7 cents MORE a day to feed your dog than a Super- Premium does.
In order to give your dog the nutrition he needs, he has to eat 3-1/2 times more of the Econo brand than the Super- Premium food.

Thus, the big difference is in the poop! The seven cents more that you spend on an Economy brand buys you piles more in the yard cleanup department.


Something else interesting turned up in our study. If you have a giant breed, such as an Irish Wolfhound, you would have to feed your dog at least 12 cups of an Econo brand for a cost of 64 cents a day.

On a Super-Premium, he'd eat only 4-3/4 cups of food for a cost of 62 cents a day. That means the top quality food costs two cents less than the low quality food to get the same nutrition.

The bigger the dog, the narrower the margin of savings the Super-Premiums give. However, for my money, I'll take the Super-Premiums any day - can you imagine having to clean up the result of 12 cups of food a day per Wolfhound?? (Feeding a bigger dog on a Premium dog food costs 1/3 of a cent less than the Super-Premium, although you will still be feeding more and would have greater stool volume.)

Working with a kennel of 70 active hunting dogs over the last three years, we tested 10 different brands of dog food ranging from Econo brands to Super-Premiums.

We found that it doesn't pay to feed a cheap-quality dog food.

The better the quality of the food, the LESS it took to feed our dogs.

Even at a higher price per bag, we saved several cents per feeding per dog. The better quality the food, the better the value.

Here's an example in our Foxhound kennel. The typical dog weighs about 70 pounds. It costs an average of 86 cents per dog per day to feed a Super-Premium brand, compared to S1.01 per dog per day for a Premium brand. When we fed a Regular brand, it cost us $1.12 per dog per day. When we fed an Econo brand, our cost soared to $1.35 per dog per day.

Super-Premium dog foods are more digestible so more of the nutrients are utilized. This means less poop is produced. Super-Premiums are more nutrient dense and less expensive to feed than Economy, Regular and some Premium brands


Timberwolf in one of dozens of Super-Premium brands.  Look at what they pack into those little kibble bites.

http://www.timberwolforganics.com/Pet-Foods

Timberwolf Bison™ Canid Formula

This formula may be used for the feeding of animals that require a lesser amount of protein in their diet. It is also another good choice to help in the management of your pet's weight. It has high levels of omega-3 essential fatty acids.

Dakota Bison is an excellent choice for the maintenance of a healthy skin and coat.





Guaranteed Analysis

Crude Protein min. 26%

Crude Fat min. 16%

Crude Fiber max. 3%

Moisture max. 9%

Ash max. 6%

Calcium 1.75%

Phosphorus 1.2%

Copper 16 mg/kg

Vitamin A 22,000 IU/kg

Vitamin D 1,200 IU/kg

Vitamin E 350 IU/kg

*Taurine min. .17%

*Omega-6 Fatty Acids 3.8%

*Omega-3 Fatty Acids 1.4%

*Not recognized as an essential nutrient by AAFCO Dog Food Nutrient Profile.

Calorie Content (Calculated)

Kcal/kg 3,680

Kcal/cup 522



Ingredients: Bison, Salmon Meal, Ground Millet, Ground Brown Rice, Oat Groats, Chicken Fat, Sweet Potatoes, Salmon Oil, Dried Apples, Dried Cranberries, Dried Figs, Ground Thyme, Ground Anise Seed, Ground Cinnamon, Ground Fenugreek, Dried Garlic, Ground Sunflower Seeds, Ground Sesame Seeds, Dried Kelp, Dehydrated Alfalfa meal, Natural Flavors, Dried Carrots, Dried Celery, Dried Beets, Dried Parsley, Dried Lettuce, Dried Watercress, Dried Spinach, Dried Egg Product, L-Lysine, Dried Tomato Pomace, Dried Whey Product, Casein, Potassium Chloride, Salt, Lecithin, Taurine, DL-Methionine, Brewer’s Dried Yeast, Dried Saccharomyces cerevisiae Fermentation Solubles, Dried Lactobacillus acidophilus Fermentation Product, Dried Bacillus subtilis Fermentation Product, Dried Bifidobacterium thermophilum Fermentation Product, Dried Bifidobacterium longum Fermentation Product, Dried Enterococcus faecium Fermentation Product, Zinc Amino Acid Complex, Choline Chloride, Iron Amino Acid Complex, Vitamin E Supplement, Manganese Amino Acid Complex, Copper Amino Acid Complex, Vitamin B12 Supplement, Vitamin A Acetate, Niacin, Calcium Pantothenate, Vitamin D3 Supplement, Riboflavin, Folic Acid, Pyridoxine Hydrochloride (a source of vitamin B6), Thiamine Hydrochloride, Biotin, Cobalt Proteinate, Potassium Iodide, Sodium Selenite, Mixed Tocopherols (a natural preservative), Citric Acid, Yucca Schidigera Extract, Rosemary Extract.

Field Dog First Aid

One of the first things I put in the Jeep or motorhome when I go out to walk or field trial my dogs is my field dog first aid kit. 

Here is a picture of Bailey with a cut pad and me putting my sock on his paw.  Within two minutes it had fallen off. 

Now I keep a good kit handy.

Article by Keith McCafferty.

No matter how watchful you are, your hunting dog may suffer any number of injuries when afield. Fortunately you can treat many of them yourself, saving you and your dog a lot of misery-not to mention veterinary bills.

Here's how to field-treat six common problems.

Also known as grass awns, these can be found nearly everywhere, especially early in the season. Check your dog's nose, ears, and eyes hourly, including under the lower eyelids, and remove seeds with fingers or tweezers and by washing the eyes with a sterile saline solution. If the dog paws at its face, shakes its head, or sneezes constantly, or if one of its ears droops, an awn may be lodged out of reach in the ear canal, nostril, or under the nictitating membrane of the eye, where it can cause an ulcer. This isn't a crisis, but get the dog to a vet.

Animal Enemies

Puncture wounds from fights should be cleaned and treated with antibiotics before the dog gets to a vet. Never close a puncture wound-this increases the chance of infection. To remove porcupine quills, use two hemostats: clamp one on the quill at the skin surface, pull, and clamp the other under it; repeat until the quill is out. Those in the mouth or near the eyes merit medical attention. Snakebites may not be immediately apparent. If the dog grows lethargic, assume the worst-administer an antihistamine and rush him to the vet.

Heat Illnesses

It's hotter at ground level than it is at human height; plus, in winter, the low angle of the sun beats against a dog's entire side, making heatstroke common among active ones. On hot days, carry 6 liters of water to hunt a single dog for three hours-4 liters to cool the dog down and the other 2 for drinking. Stumbling, rapid breathing, glassy eyes, and foaming are signs of heatstroke. Get the dog into the shade and submerge him in cool water if possible.

Barbed Wire

Unless they're very dirty, rips caused by barbed wire can be treated in the field. Muzzle the dog, clip the hair around the wound, and flush it with water followed by a sterile saline solution. Treat the wound with Betadine solution, staple it closed (you can get a skin staple gun from your vet), then fill the gaps with an antibiotic ointment. Administer a prescription oral antibiotic for 10 days, but check regularly for signs of infection.

Thorns and catus spines

If your dog is limping, one of these may be the reason. Check pads and between toes often, especially after a dog has chased a pheasant into thick cover. Remove thorns or cactus spines with a hemostat and treat the wounds with Betadine solution.

Pad Injuries

These occur when sand, shale, or sharp rocks chafe the bottom of the paw. Condition your dog's pads by incremental exposure and the application of a pad toughener, but always carry rubber dog boots when hunting rough terrain. Raw or torn pads should be cleaned, treated with Betadine solution, and slathered with antibiotic ointment. Superglue or veterinarian's glue can be applied to form a protective shield. Abraded pads need to be bandaged and booted if the dog continues to hunt.

Dog First Aid

Fascinated by Vizsla History

I am fascinated by the Vizsla's history.  It is a mystery novel that spans ten centuries.  The map below was the Hungarian - Austrian Empire one hundred years ago. 

 The empire was much bigger than the country we now know as Hungary.  The Vizsla was THE hunting dog of royalty in this vast empire.  It was a capital offense to be caught trying to smuggle a Hungarian Vizsla out of the empire.

Borrowed from Vizsla Puppies Blog:

http://vizslapuppiesblog.com/page/2/

"Hungary is famous for its sheepdogs. These include the Komondor, the Puli, the Pumi, the Mudi and the Kuvasz.

 But within the breed group of Vizsla, only 3 sub-categories can be found. Namely, the German Vizsla, the Italian Vizsla ( a.k.a Bracco Italiano) and the Hungarian Vizsla. The Hungarian Vizsla is the most-well known and thus the most well-loved as well. Within the famous Hungarian breeds, the Hungarian Vizsla stands regally next to the Transylvanian Hound (a.k.a Pannon Hound), since it is not a flock guard, but rather a hunting dog – unique to all the Hungarian dog breeds!

It developed independently from all the other Vizsla breeds, and its origin dates back to when the Magyars conquered the Carpathian Basin at the end of the 9th century. Hungarian tribes that settled in the Carpathian Basin brought dogs with them and these in turn mixed with hunting dogs of the Slavic people living in the occupied territory at that time. The dogs that evolved were the ancestors of today's Hungarian hunting dog breeds, namely the Hungarian vizsla and the Transylvanian hound.

 Separation of the two breeds occurred in the 11th century and when the Turks conquered Hungary in the 16th century, the Vizsla developed further by crossing with the dogs of the Turks: namely with the dog breed called the Sloughi. Unfortunately, by the end of World War II, much of the Hungarian Vizsla population was destroyed. A few of these dogs were taken to Western Europe and America.

The original book of origin was also lost in a fire, so the origin of some of the remaining facts became unknown.

But top quality European breeders have perpetuated the gene-pool of this beautiful and regal breed that is very much loved outside of its native Hungary as well!"
Versatile Vizsla

About the Hungarian Vizsla


It is likely that the populations that evolved were the ancestors of today’s Hungarian hunting dog breeds, that is, the Hungarian vizsla and the Transylvanian hound. This ancient type is nowadays called a Pannon hound.

Separation among these breeds came about as a result of a selection caused by different uses, presumably during the 12th-14th centuries. The world “vizsla” appears in written material dating back to the 1300s. Early in the 16th century, people in mansion houses were involved in breeding vizsla – which is proven by several documents found in different archives. Therefore, we know that a vizsla type dog was used to hunt small game even before the time of Turkish occupation of Central Hungary in the 16th-17th centuries. During this Turkish occupation, the vizsla most probably also mixed with the Turks’ dogs, including the sloughi. The practical importance of the vizsla increased with the spreading of firearms in the 18th century. Of the ancient Hungarian noble families, many included passionate hunters, who also bred vizsla. Worth mentioning in this respect were the Zay, the Batthyány, the Nádasdy, and the Komlóssy families. In the 19th century, the Hungarian vizsla was widespread in northern Hungary (today southern Slovakia), Transdanubia, as well as in Szabolcs and Bihar counties in the East. Unfortunately, its number substantially decreased by the end of the century.The purposive, sports-like dog breeding saw prosperity in the 1860s Europe-wide. It was then that the English and German types of vizsla appeared in Hungary – to the detriment of the ancient Hungarian vizsla. The number of Hungarian vizsla was greatly reduced. In 1916, Tibor Thúróczi wrote an article in the Hungarian dog journal “Nimród” with the title “The old Hungarian yellow vizsla”. This article evoked a lot of response, with many people voicing their opinion in favour of the old Hungarian yellow vizsla. The movement was headed by Dr. Kálmán Polgár, Károly Bába and Béla Kerpely. It was in 1920 that – under the auspices of the Hungarian Kennel Club – the Association of Hungarian Vizsla Breeders was formed, and operated as a section of the National Vizsla Club.

A dog could get into the book of pedigree kept by the Hungarian Kennel Club only after judgement by a special commission, if that particular dog proved to be suitable by its look and at a hunting test. The first registered vizsla included Witti (see picture) Honvéd, Laura and Pax…

Following an extensive debate, the standard was developed with the leadership of Loránd Morvay, Dr. Emil Raísits, Jenő Puntigám and Béla Kerpely, which was accepted by the National Vizsla Club in 1928. The FCI (Federation Cynologique Internationale - World Canine Organisation) recognised this breed in 1936, and registered the standard under number 57.

The working features of the vizsla were characterised like this: ... the most obedient and teachable of all the vizsla types ... it follows instructions very well ... it is due to its unconditional obedience that it searches as wide of an area as we want... there is hardly a Hungarian vizsla that must be forced to retrieve ... with regard to tracking, considering its origin as a bloodhound, it is a real master. (Gyula Csizmadia ) The working conditions were set by the Competition Regulations and accepted in 1936.

The first large breeds were the Végvár, Gyöngyöspuszta and Kapos kennels. The famous vizsla trainers, who were also recognised abroad, like Endre Félix or Balázs Ötvös, did a lot for the popularisation of this breed. The creation of the breeding farm in Hévíz in 1937 produced a great boost in breeding. The owner of the farm was Duke György Festetics.

In 1936, the book of pedigree was closed. Therefore, only the pure blood descendants of dogs admitted into the book until that time were allowed into breeding. By the early 1940s, there were approximately five thousand thoroughbred Hungarian vizslas in the country.

Unfortunately, by the end of World War II, much of the Hungarian vizsla population was destroyed, a few of these dogs were taken to Western Europe or America. The original, central book of origin was also lost in fire, thus the origin of some of the remaining entities found was unknown. The National Vizsla Club re-launched the book of pedigree and began to reconstruct the breed. In this, great assistance was also provided by the state breeding farm established in Gödöllő, east of Budapest in 1947. In 1956, the Hungarian Kennel Club was recreated with the leadership of Mihály Kende, and it managed to settle its membership problems with the FCI in 1963. It was in 1966 that the FCI accepted the modification of the Hungarian vizsla standard.

In parallel with the improvement of the economic and political situation, in the seventies, the dog hobby began another development process that has not abated since. A perceivable change came about in the history of the Hungarian vizsla, as well. More and more hunting dog competitions of higher and higher standards were organised, and that had a favourable effect on breeding, too. Instead of the bulkier, bonier, skinny Hungarian vizslas with much tissue under the skin of the head, widespread after the War, it was the easy-build, dynamic Hungarian vizsla of galloping type similar to the ones dreamed up by Dr. Kálmán Polgár and his associates that came to the foreground, and which perfectly fulfil the hunting and competition requirements of our modern era.

[EXCERPTS FROM THE BREEDING REGULATIONS OF THE HUNGARIAN VIZSLA KLUB]

Steady To Wing And Shot - The Next Step

Bailey is now nearly two years old.  He is no longer a "derby dog." 
  He did graduate near the top of his class in derby field trials. 

 Good boy and happy birthday!

Those who have followed Bailey's field trial adventures over the last year know he is very good. 

I have known since he scored 113 out of 113 in the Natural Ability Test (NAVHDA) in March of 2009 when he was eight months old that he was a special hunting dog. 

Now I have given myself two months to find "the trainer" to help take Bailey to the next step - Steady to wing and shot.

The trainer I choose will be my dog training mentor.

The next level of field trialing will be starting in 2011. 

I have never done this type of search before.  Kind of like the time we were looking a colleges with our daughters. 

A very important decision that will affect my next few years of field trialing. 

I'm having a good time.   Lots of research and questions. 

Here are some of the things I will be looking for in a trainer:

From a website: HuntingDogTrainer.com

This level in training your dog should be taught to be steady to both wing and shot. Most dogs are introduced to the "hup" command. Your dog when steady to wing and shot should handle in the field and be retrieving to your hand.


The steadying phase in training should be done with great care by DIY type dog trainers. Professional trainers are highly recommended because they can help the dog alleviate any bad habits at this stage. Professional trainers know how to read the dog and apply the exact method of steadying your dog. Steadying is not a clear cut process that all DIY type trainers are capable of. We highly recommend professional trainers assistance at this phase in training.


They can also be trained to honor another dog's point and stopping to wild flushes at this phase in training.We are the complete Hunting Dog and Field Trial Dog Training website.



Countless wild game birds are legally taken each year as a result of highly trained hunting and gun dogs. Hunting is pure pleasure when a well trained gun dog is used. Just try hunting upland game without a dog sometime.


Gun dogs should be trained in realistic settings that totally replicate the type of environment they will hunt in. on the same type of grounds that you will be hunting. Hunting dogs should be trained with live birds such as Quail, Chuckar and Pheasants to further replicate a true hunting environment. Parks and groves are sometimes used by default by some trainers. We recommend consulting with your trainer about what type of environment and conditions your dog will be trained under.


Training facilities are an important decision on how your dog will be treated and taken care of. Will your dog be kept in a heated and cooled indoor kennel, or will he be kept in a plastic crate out side? Will your dog have his own individual kennel with, his own individual kennel run, or will he have to share?

Exercise is important for hunting and gun dogs, this part of the training program must also be covered before enlisting any dog trainers' services. Many quality training facilities are equipped with misters to keep your dog cool and areas to exercise in that keep their acclimation to the outdoors in sync.

There are several different types of Hunting Dogs. All can be classified in the following, puppies, started dogs, and finished or broke dogs and Field Trial Dogs. Gun Dogs and be purchased anywhere along their training. When choosing a gun dog it is important that you choose wisely. Your new gun dog must be an excellent hunting partner for the species you are hunting as well as a faithful family friend that can fit comfortably in you home.

It is important that the hunting dog breeder you choose breed from Quality Field champion lines. Gun dogs from these lines can be expected to hunt upland game birds as well as be capable of competing in field trials at Local, Regional and National levels.

Training Programs

Training programs need to be matched to your dogs age and skill. Puppy, head start programs, are for puppies that have no experience.

Formal training programs usually begin with young 1 to 2 year old dogs, breaking of the dog for realistic hunting situations, preparing them to be loyal gun dogs.

Field Trial and Campaigning programs can help your dog to compete on whichever level you choose. With a competent trainer, and a dog with a good bloodline, the sky is the limit.

A good hunting dog trainer will offer a wide variety of training options, to help you and your dog. They can tailor your training program whether you are just getting started in the sport or you are finishing your dog's skills for your next upland bird hunt. "

Best Way to Train Your Gun Dog: The Delmar Smith Method